It is a fierce debate that divides families and friends, and it has nothing to do with the Yale-Quinnipiac rivalry.
The question: Who makes the best pizza in New Haven, Conn.?
Most people believe that the debate began in 1938 when Salvatore Consiglio, nephew of Frank Pepe (owner of Pepe's Pizza--established in 1925) opened his own Apizza restaurant just down the street, (on Wooster Street), from his uncle, but what these non-New-Haveners don't know is that, in 1934(four years before Sally's), Modern Apizza(then known as State Street Apizza, due to their location on State Street), opened their doors and began making a name for themselves, taking customers away from Pepe's.
Bar and other Apizza-centered restaurants have since opened, but the three aforementioned Apizzerias have remained on top.
The argument has been going on for decades with no clear winner, but the day has finally come to give a detailed review of not just Frank Pepe's Pizza and Sally's Apizza, but also Modern, and unlike "critics" who go to only one pizzeria because the other is closed on the day of their visit and doesn't feel the need to go to Modern Apizza or Bar, but still think they know which is best. This writer, over the course of a year, has eaten at all three establishments, trying a vast array of pies.
Now that all of that is out of the way, no better pie to start with then what New Haven is known for: Clam Apizza.
At Modern and Sally's, one has the option of choosing either white or red sauce and each sauce has its own taste.
At Sally's, an out-of-the over-red-sauce pie tastes rich in flavor. The clam mixed in with the marina is a wonderful combination.
However, there are many downsides to Sally's red-sauce:
The dough is too strong, it is like chewing into rubber and after the clams and sauce go down easily, it takes a few more, head-numbing minutes to get the whole slice done with. Also, the clams themselves aren't that big--kind-of like tiny specs buried into the sauce. They add no substance to the pie. If one didn't know they were clams, one would think they were eating a basic red pie.
The white sauce has the same issues with the tough crust and lack of real clams, but for Sally's the best option is the red.
At Modern, the red sauce complements the big clam topping. Once in the mouth, the clams take over and entice the tastebuds. The crust is thin and soft allowing for a pleasant chewing experience.
On the flip side, the red sauce reduces the saltiness of the clams, giving the red-sauce more exposure, but the white sauce adds a new sensation entirely--the white sauce is the way clam Apizza should be.
With white sauce, the clams don't lose any salt or texture--one notices the different.
For Modern, either red or white, neither is a bad choice, but if the clams are important, white is the way to go.
When it comes to Pepe's, it is sad to say, but the pie, which, unlike Sally's and Modern, only comes in white sauce, when fresh, one notices the sauce dripping down the slice, which makes the pie soggy. The crust, which, like Modern, is easy to digest becomes mushy. The clams, which again, like Modern, are big and the center-piece of the pie are too bitter for liking, due to the abundance of the sauce.
Pepe's clam Apizza--very disappointing--don't waste the time or money.
Winner: Modern--Red or White Sauce.
Prefer a veggie pie? All three offer a their own unique twist of the veggie classic.
Stating with Sally's: again, one has the option of red or white, but with the way they pile on the veggies, the sauce doesn't matter.
The good thing about their veggie pie:
The veggies--olives, spinach, tomato chunks, onions and other options. Once out of the oven and melted into the cheese, the aroma, zest and sight makes one want to dig in immediately, and when the pie is over, nibbling on the pieces that dropped is always delightful.
Again, the only issue is the hardness of the crust.
Modern has their own veggie style pie, preferring to space out the topping. The sauce is also irrelevant, but the other difference is Modern's way of allowing the veggies not to sink into the cheese. This gives the option of eating the veggies first, as an appetizer and having the pie became the entree.
Pepe's like Sally's melts the veggies into the cheese and piles it on, but the type of sauce gives different tastes. This makes one have to eat both style pies before making a decision on the best.
Winner: Pepe's--red or white.
Then, there is the margarita-style pie.
Modern is eliminated from this discussion:
One can only get it in a small.
Their margarita looks and tastes like a regular cheese that can be ordered at Pizza Hut or Dominos.
Sally's is also out of consideration because their margarita is their red-pie, but with a few slices or mozzarella. They say it is fresh, but that is doubtful.
The only true margarita is at Pepe's. Using real fresh mozzarella sitting on top of chunking tomatoes and complemented by basil with a thin and crunchy crust, for Apizza lovers, it is like a dream.
Nothing comes close to it, the must eat pie. Words cannot describe this pie--the only way is to say that by not trying this pie, one cannot say they experienced true Apizza.
Winner: Pepe's
As for the establishments themselves:
When dining in at either Pepe's or Sally's, it is highly recommended to call ahead of time, especially on the weekends. Both open at 5 p.m. with lines starting at around 4 p.m. The wait time to get in without an RSVP, could be up to an hour.
Starting out at Pepe's, once inside, the staff is young and friendly. The atmosphere is welcoming and clean, and the music isn't overbearing, which allows the patrons to chat without raising voices to be heard, but still giving the restaurant that ambience so deeply needed.
Modern, which again isn't located on Wooster, (State Street) gives one or group the ability to eat without the stress of waiting in line or the trouble of calling ahead of time for a spot.
Traditional style bench sitting, low music and dim lighting, it is comfortable and cosy.
At Sally's, it is a different story. With the lack of space, everything is crammed, the staff, which looks like they were alive during the Civil War lacks the friendly and inviting nature of their counterparts up the road.
The space looks dirty, giving the feeling that the food is dirty as well. On one visit, waiting outside to get in, a few "regulars," want-to-be bikers in their late 50s, spent their time revving up their motors (annoying the people in line), yelling at each other and farting.
Avoid dinning in at Sally's at all costs.
Winner: Pepe's and Modern.
However, for those not able to eat the pie in one sit down, microwaving, once home, is another issue to consider.
With Pepe's and Modern, it is suggested not to take-home, fresh is the way to eat.
But with Sally's, the once unable-to-eat crust becomes nice and soft--even the topping taste better.
Winner: Sally's.
This article is copyrighted by Travelers Today, the travel news leader
